This invention relates to a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers using alkoxylated carboxylic acid esters and partial glycerides and to their use for the production of wave lotions.
The permanent deformation of keratin fibers is normally carried out by mechanically deforming the fibers and fixing the deformation by suitable auxiliaries. Before and/or after their deformation, the fibers are treated with an aqueous preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and, after a contact time, are rinsed with water or with an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fibers are treated with an aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After a certain contact time, the oxidizing agent is also rinsed out and the mechanical deforming aids (curlers, rollers) are removed from the fibers.
The aqueous preparation of the keratin reducing agent is normally alkalized so that the fiber swells and the keratin-reducing substance is thus able to penetrate deeply into the fiber. The keratin-reducing substance splits some of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to -SH groups, so that the peptide linkage is loosened and, through the stretching of the fibers by their mechanical deformation, the keratin structure is re-oriented. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent, disulfide bonds are re-established and, in this way, the deformation which the keratin structure has undergone is fixed.
A known process of the type in question is the permanent waving of human hair. This process may be applied both to produce curls and waves in straight hair and to straighten curly hair.
Although this process known as permanent waving is widely practised today, it still uses preparations which cannot be regarded as optimal in many respects. In particular, it is desirable to reduce the damagexe2x80x94which can go as far as breakagexe2x80x94to mistreated hair, particularly oxidatively pretreated hair, without affecting the required shaping performance and to protect the hair against excessive drying out and moisture loss. The same applies to the frequent problems affecting the scalp through dermatological incompatibility. Another problem is that the preparations thicken easily, particularly when stored at elevated temperature, and cannot then be conveniently used any more.
Accordingly, the problem addressed by the present invention was to provide a process for the permanent deformation of keratin fibers, particularly human hair, which would be free from the disadvantages mentioned above.